Microneedling supports texture, scarring, and overall skin quality by creating controlled micro-injuries that trigger repair. Repair includes inflammatory signaling, and inflammatory signaling can activate melanocytes. For clients with higher Fitzpatrick phototypes, melasma history, or a pattern of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), pigment control is part of responsible treatment planning.
I’m Angela Hugghins, a licensed esthetician at Monarch Brow + Facial Studio. In my treatment room, pre-treatment often includes a home use tyrosinase inhibitor. This prep plan is about giving pigment-prone skin a calmer runway before a procedure that intentionally creates inflammation.
Who this pre-treatment is for
This prep step is commonly used for:
• Fitzpatrick IV, V, and VI clients
• Anyone with melasma, recurrent PIH, or pigment that lingers after irritation
• Clients with a family history of melasma
• Clients who pigment even with spf50+, after acne, waxing, threading, or friction
If you have active dermatitis, a compromised barrier, or a flare that stings with basic moisturizer, the plan starts with barrier comfort and a slower pace.
What is tyrosinase
Tyrosinase is an enzyme involved in melanin production. When melanocytes receive certain signals, including inflammation and UV exposure, tyrosinase activity can rise. Increased activity can contribute to uneven tone, dark marks, and pigment that takes longer to fade.
Tyrosinase inhibitors help reduce melanin production signals during a vulnerable window, including the weeks leading up to microneedling.
Why pigment can rise after microneedling
Microneedling relies on a wound-healing cascade. That cascade includes cytokines and other messengers. In pigment-prone skin, those messengers can encourage melanocyte activity in the treated area. The result can be PIH or a melasma flare.
Pre-treatment supports a more predictable healing response by quieting pigment pathways before the procedure.
Azelaic acid before microneedling
Azelaic acid is used in dermatology for acne, rosacea, melasma, and PIH-prone patterns. It is known for anti-inflammatory support and pigment support, including effects related to tyrosinase activity.
Why I use it in microneedling prep:
• It fits clients who juggle acne, redness, and uneven tone
• It supports barrier-friendly routines when introduced slowly
• It layers easily into a simple plan
Common sensations include mild tingling or dryness during the first weeks. These signals guide frequency.
Cysteamine before microneedling
Cysteamine is a topical depigmenting agent used for melasma and uneven tone. Many protocols use it as a short-contact product, which appeals to clients who prefer rinse-off steps.
Why I use it in microneedling prep:
• It targets pigment pathways in a focused way
• It fits routines that stay tight and low drama
• It supports melasma-prone clients who want a clear protocol
Cysteamine has a distinct odor and can feel drying, unless the formula specifies differently. Moisturizer and sunscreen support the plan.
Tranexamic acid before microneedling
Tranexamic acid, often called TXA, is used for melasma and stubborn pigment patterns. It is not an exfoliating acid. It is a pigment-modulating ingredient that influences pathways linked to UV and inflammation signaling.
Why I use topical TXA in microneedling prep:
• It aligns with melasma-focused treatment plans
• It supports even tone goals with a gentle routine structure
• It fits clients who prefer leave-on serums
Oral tranexamic acid is a medical decision. That option requires screening and prescribing by a licensed clinician.
A simple microneedlding pre-treatment framework
Timelines vary by history, sensitivity, and treatment depth. This structure is a common starting point.
2 to 6 weeks before microneedling
• Choose one pigment prep product: azelaic acid, cysteamine, or tranexamic acid
• Keep the routine simple: gentle cleanser, hydration, moisturizer
• Use sunscreen daily, including visible-light protection when melasma is part of the skin pathology
7 to 5 days before microneedling
• Pause exfoliating acids and retinoids
• Pause pigment actives if skin feels dry, tight, or reactive
• Focus on hydration and barrier comfort
After microneedling
• Prioritize barrier support and calm hydration
• Use sunscreen daily
• Restart pigment actives after the skin feels settled and intact, based on your provider’s guidance, usually 7 days post-prodcedure
The non-negotiable factor
Sun exposure influences pigment behavior. UV and visible light matter for melasma and PIH-prone skin. Daily sunscreen and sensible exposure habits support every pigment protocol you use before and after microneedling.
Frequently asked questions about tyrosinase inhibitors and microneedling
Should everyone use a tyrosinase inhibitor before microneedling?
No. It is most useful for clients with higher Fitzpatrick phototypes, melasma history, or recurrent PIH.
Can I combine azelaic acid and tranexamic acid?
Some clients tolerate a combined plan. The safest approach starts with one pigment active, then adjusts based on response. I like to evaluate after every microneedling session to see if we should add another product based on the skin’s behavior at the time.
Will pigment prep replace sunscreen?
Sunscreen remains essential for pigment management and post-procedure care.
How long should I prep before my appointment?
Many clients start 2 to 6 weeks ahead. Sensitive skin may need a slower build.
For more on microneedling basics, start here.
Angela Hugghins, licensed esthetician
Monarch Brow + Facial Studio, Carrboro, NC also serving Chapel Hill, Hillsborough, Durham and Chatham Counties.